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On July 1st, Challenger sighted
the islands of Fayal & St. Jorge. As they prepare to anchor, Matkin
writes:
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pretty close in now & in a few minutes the pipe will go “all
hands bring ship to anchor", and out will come the Portuguese
Boats with Fish, Fruit, &c. I don't think we shall get any letters
until we arrive at St. Miguel. our latest news direct from England
is May 8th, so we are nearly 2 months in arrear.
9pm
We dropped anchor at 4 about 1/4 of a mile from the chief town of
Horta, a very pretty place built all along the beach & looking
like Brighton seen from the sea. The houses are all white without
chimneys, & away far up in the mountains a few convents can
be seen. At 8 o'clock the bells were ringing for evening mass &
sounded very solemn indeed. They don't ring a peal like we do but
have one deep toned bell which is rung very slowly like a passing
bell. These islands are all cultivated & at present the corn
is just ready for cutting. |
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Challenger's company would not yet have a shore-leave, for as soon as
they'd arrived they were greeted with news of conditions on the islands,
and the Captain had a decision to make.
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As soon as we anchored, the Quarantine boat came
alongside to see if we had any sickness on board, after considerable
delay they gave us pratique, which means permission to land &c,
but they also informed us that the small pox was very bad on shore
& also at the other islands & Madeira, so our stay at these
islands will be as short as possibl.e The disease was brought here
by a British merchant ship from Boston, America, but the boatmen
told us that none but children were attached as yet. However the
Captain allowed no one on shore but himself & a few of the scientific
gents & the boatmen were not allowed in board, but we might
go down to their boats alongside & purchase what we liked. They
had fish, eggs, cheese, bread, green figs, apricots, plums &c.
I have bought 6 dozen of each, & half a dozen eggs which is
the total amount I have expended here. |
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